Addison - San Diego, USA

Addison was opened almost 2 decades ago in 2006 with the creative talent of chef William Bradley. Since then, and still under Bradley’s guidance, the restaurant has earned numerous awards and recognitions. Addison earned its third Michelin star in December of 2022, which it has held onto since. As for the cuisine, Addison’s own website bills it as “California Gastronomy,” which is created through regional ingredients with a Southern California influence. I would say that describes it well, and if we look a little closer, we can see why. The menu is seafood-centric, taking advantage of seasonal, locally-available ingredients, and also gives a nod to Japanese and Mexican cuisines, both of which are prevalent throughout Southern California, and particularly in this area.

After checking in with the hostess a little before our reservation time, we were led into the bar and lounge area while our table was prepared. We looked over the cocktail list, and the options looked good. By the time we had made up our minds, however, our waiter came to escort us to our table in the main dining room. The room itself is quite large, which allows the tables to be relatively spread out. I think this is nice, because unlike some other restaurants, even of this same caliber, you’re not literally rubbing elbows with the party next to you. This gives the environment a bit more of an intimate feel I think, but to me this was not a plus or minus necessarily, just an observation. On to the food.

Before the meal began, our waiter went through a couple options for truffle and wagyu supplements, as well as the options for wine pairing. Once that had been arranged, it was time for the food. The meal began with a small tepache, which is a Mexican drink made from fermented pineapple rinds. This had a sweet and zesty flavor, but was not overpowering, and was a great way to wake up the palate.

Then came a selection of 4 different bite-sized appetizers. First was a sake-cured kanpachi (amberjack), which was delicately dressed. This was followed by locally-sourced garden greens, which had been carefully placed into a pillow-shaped, very light flaky crouton pastry of sorts. Next was a cube of fried potato (think an elegant tater tot), topped neatly with thin slices of Spanish anchovies. Dots of Meyer lemon jam and wild arugula puree topped the fish and added color as well as an acidic edge of flavor to cut through the primary salty and savory flavors. Finally for the dessert of this micro-meal, there were stuffed churros topped with chocolate. However, these were not the churros one would find at the Del Mar Fair down the street. The stuffing was a chicken liver mousse, and the tiniest dot of chocolate on the top was a bitter dark chocolate. These, as well as the rest of the appetizers in the course, were absolutely delicious. Who would’ve thought?

Starting off the main courses was more kanpachi, this time, prepared as sashimi. Thin slices of the fish, as well as thinly sliced fruits, possibly pear, were wrapped around each other to form a rose shape. It was advised to eat this dish by picking it apart gradually, to enjoy the individual flavors, which I did, not only in order to appreciate the different flavors, but to really savor the dish which could have easily been gobbled up in a single bite otherwise.

Next up was Chef Bradley’s take on a Japanese staple; chawanmushi. For those unfamiliar with this dish, it is basically a steamed egg custard, and can include a variety of ingredients. This version was made with a shellfish stock, and featured broccoli, bok choy, and celtuce, which is a variety of thick-stemmed lettuce. All of this was topped with a generous portion of uni, or sea urchin. Of all the chawanmushi I have tried, this one definitely is an elevated version, although still maintaining the traditional, humble presentation. It was a warm, savory, delicious dish. Not to mention the uni, which I personally enjoy, took it up another level.

The next dish on the menu is known as “Eggs and Rice,” however the name is mildly misleading. It is composed of toasted Koshihikari rice (a common variety of Japanese rice) and sesame, all brought together in a creamy smoked sabayon, which is an egg yolk-based sauce. This is topped with a generous dollop of Regiis Ova caviar, which is the brand owned by chef Thomas Keller of The French Laundry. In my completely subjective opinion, this is my favorite dish from any restaurant I have ever tried. Obviously, the ingredients are terrific on their own, but something about the flavors of the dish strikes a chord with me. It almost hits a nostalgic note and takes me back to a fond childhood memory of my grandparent’s home, enjoying a familiar warmth on a cold winter night. Anyway, the dish is simple in its ingredients, yet complex in its flavors, which are incredibly deep, savory, and rich. The amount is enough to satisfy (although I would eat several servings) but not too much to fill up, since there are several more courses to go.

Arriving at the entrance of the Fairmont Grand Del Mar grounds, a private drive leads up the canyon, along one edge of their golf course. With the resort’s main building in the distance, Addison is set across the golf course in a separate building, overlooking its own picturesque views of the surrounding nature. The building itself has a mediterranean-inspired design, and has a striking contrast against the abundant lush greenery of the golf course, with its terra-cotta-pink exterior.

Following that simply amazing dish was a play on something else simple and familiar; chips and dip. The chips were almost a singular chip, as they were made from a few long ribbons of potato, which was a challenge to eat without creating crumbs, but was a fun presentation. The dip was an onion dip, topped with a dusting of onion ash. This was accompanied by “dill relish” in the form of dill-pickled gherkins, topped with more caviar and fresh dill. Altogether, an elevated deconstruction of a familiar classic.

Now getting into the more substantial portion of the menu, the first protein was Addison’s Splendid Alfonsino. Also known as Golden Eye Snapper, or Kinmedai in Japanese cuisine, this red-skinned fish has a mild flavor and was cooked to a delicious, fall-apart-flaky texture. It was served in a seasonal crab consomme, or broth, with some seasonal herbs and thinly sliced radishes. This dish is another staple for Addison, and varies slightly with its preparation, based on seasonally available ingredients. In this case, and as usual, it was cooked to perfection and delicious.

The next protein was a horse mackerel tempura, paired with a “green garden” of leafy greens, and accompanied by a melted basil-infused butter. Mackerel has a much stronger flavor than the Splendid Alfonsino, which many, including myself, appreciate. The fish was very lightly fried, enough to make the tempura a perfectly light golden-brown, while just slightly cooking the fish within. The full flavor carried through, complemented well by the rich basil butter, and balanced by the fresh and crisp leaves from the small salad.

Following the fish, it was time for the bread course. The bread was a homemade sourdough, served alongside fresh goat’s milk butter and honey butter (cow’s milk). The flavorful bread was a thick, uniform loaf that had a crispy but pliable crust. It stood on its own, but was smartly saved to help clean up after the main courses.

The main course was served in two parts, with a prelude, then the main course itself. The standard menu featured quail as the main, but also offered an upgrade to wagyu for an additional charge, so we tried both. Preceding the quail was a beautifully prepared egg drop soup, made with quail egg, silken tofu, and shiitake mushrooms. The egg was cooked in the soup in such a way that made hundreds of egg ribbons, suspended in the broth, creating a striking visual appearance.

Following this prelude came the Cantonese quail, which was dressed in a five-spice quail jus, and paired with yu choy, a Chinese leafy vegetable similar to bok choy. Several parts of the quail were served, including the tenderloin and heart, which to some may be unusual for fine dining, but which I appreciated, and thoroughly enjoyed. The breast and leg were served with skin on, cooked to a crispy perfection under the five-spice glaze. The tenderloin and heart were simply cooked tenderly, served with the accompaniment of the jus, which provided the perfect amount of flavor. As some know, quail can have a slightly ‘gamey’ flavor, but this was cooked and seasoned perfectly, with nothing unpleasant about the dish. As with the rest of the meal, this course was deliciously flavorful, yet composed and balanced.

For the other option, preceding the wagyu was a kombu dashi (a sea kelp broth) containing lengua (beef tongue), other types of seaweed, and charred scallions. This had a complex savory flavor, but was also very clean on the palate, warming it up for the main event.

The wagyu itself was not only exceptional due to the way the animal was raised, but this particular cut came from a cow which was olive-fed, which undoubtedly enhanced the richness of the meat. Accompanying the steak were two portions of tartare, topped with contrasting black squid ink crackers, with a drop of black garlic on top. If the ingredients aren’t enough to make your mouth water already, I don’t think further description would do this dish justice. The perfectly seared steak melted on the tongue, and the tartar with the squid ink crackers provided the needed contrast of flavor and texture. I would say I could eat 16 oz of this, but realistically, I would be oozing with oil if I attempted that. This was just the right amount to enjoy, but not over indulge.

Finally, the meal was coming to a close. It was almost time for dessert, but first, a palate cleanser. For this, a “mangonada” was served. This was another interpretation of a simple, familiar icon, this time of Mexican culture. It was made primarily of frozen mango, but also carried flavors of lime, tajin, which is a spice blend of chili peppers, salt, and dehydrated lime, and chamoy, which is a sauce made from pickled fruit, chilies, and lime juice. This was a sweet, tart, and mildly spicy treat that cut through all the hearty, heavy flavors left over from the main courses. Very lively and refreshing.

At last, the dessert. The dessert was a collection of four small, unique, and carefully crafted bites, which included a cocoa crunch taco, a berry-beet tartelette, a yuzu custard, and tres leches. Each of these was a unique bite, bursting with flavor. Also, each was meticulously made with the utmost precision and care. Dessert here was certainly no afterthought. It was a fun and interesting way to wrap up an exceptionally executed meal.

Along with the dinner, we had one wine pairing, which was excellent, and full of top-tier wines. Obviously, more prestigious wines will be served with the more expensive pairing options, but Addison’s sommelier and staff really know their wines, and will create an exceptional pairing, regardless of your price range. Also, if you have not tried Krug, this is a place where you should give it a taste, as Addison is one of only a few Krug Ambassadors in the U.S. Each of the wines which was paired was exceptional and complemented the dish it accompanied. The servers were helpful in their explanations of the wine, and were happy to answer questions and offer additional information regarding the grower or the variety of wine.

Overall, this meal was a real treat. Clearly, this isn’t the usual Friday night date spot, but with three Michelin stars, it is beyond an ordinary restaurant, and truly something special. From the moment we arrived, to the time that we left, we were treated well. The service was prompt, refined, and alert, yet comfortable in a friendly and approachable way. We were never left wanting for anything throughout the meal, and each drink and dish was served attentively with thought and care. The atmosphere and setting were elegant and refined, and the meal itself was superb. Again, in my personal opinion, the eggs and rice dish is one of my favorites anywhere. Also, we were finally able to meet Chef Bradley, who was kind enough to allow us into the kitchen. As anyone knows, the chef is always busy, but he made a point to spare a few minutes to spend with us as we shared some tales from our recent trip to France (where we tried one of his featured dishes), as well as our thoughts and appreciation for the spectacular meal that he and his team prepared. If you are in San Diego and have the means, then Addison will be well worth your trip. Highly recommend.