Domaine Les Crayeres - Reims, France

Domaine Les Crayères is a former private château, constructed in 1904. It has been subtly yet meticulously transformed into one of France’s premiere boutique luxury hotels. This Relais & Chateaux property has earned many accolades throughout the years, and was recently awarded 3 Michelin keys during the Guide’s inaugural year of hotel recognition. The property is well appointed with classical French luxury decor throughout its 20 rooms, and offers a unique experience for guests who are visiting Reims.

Arriving at the property felt like stepping 100 years back through time, in a great way. The building itself is situated relatively toward the front end of the property, but out back was an expansive, beautifully maintained park, which also lends to the name of the property’s premier 2-Michelin star restaurant, Le Parc. Their other restaurant, a Bib Gourmand winner, is also aptly named Le Jardin. From the back steps of the main building, overlooking the park, you may be able to catch a glimpse of the Reims skyline, including the spires of Basilique Saint-Remi, which is only a short walk away. In the daytime, it would be an idyllic spot for a walk, a picnic, or even a wedding. In the evening, it is the perfect vantage point for a picturesque sunset.

As we pulled up to the hotel, we were quickly greeted by the valets who helped with our luggage and took the car away. Just past the front door, inside the foyer, was the front desk tucked off to one side. Once we were checked in, we were led to the bar, La Rotonde, to enjoy a complimentary glass of champagne. The bar itself was simple but elegant, with rich dark wood, surrounded by walls painted a deep green, almost black in the low lighting. Traditional tartan plaid adorned the rest of the room, from the upholstery on armchairs, to the curtains, even to the carpet, but it was far from being noisy, as my description may evoke. Cozy is the word I would choose, and cozy this room certainly was. We were seated in an adjoining room, which was quite the contrast from the predominantly dark bar, but it still carried the same tones and general theme. Instead of dark walls, however, this room was almost like a conservatory, with floor to ceiling windows on three sides overlooking the park, light colored stone comprising the last wall, then white mosaic tile which covered the floor. My one regret after staying here was that I was not able to spend more time in La Rotonde. This was my favorite part of the property, aside from the park, and I could have spent hours here, sampling some of the thousands of wines on their list, nibbling on decadent small plates, and enjoying top-shelf spirits. I would have had trouble making it back to the room.

After our stop in the bar, we were ready to be shown to our room. Back in the foyer, we had the option of taking the stairs or the lift, but opted for the stairs which led up right in front of us and climbed around the perimeter of the tall foyer. We were shown to our room where our luggage was waiting, and given a physical key for the door. Like the key, there were hints of the property’s past here and there, aside from the classical decor. However, our “Deluxe” room featured enough modern comforts to meet the needs of any traveler in this century.

There were a couple downsides to the room we stayed in though. First, it was located right at the front of the property, overlooking the courtyard. The property as a whole is relatively private, and noise was no issue, however, the curtains on several of the windows did not close completely, leaving a sizable gap and a partial view into our bathroom for the unfortunate passerby. Not to mention, if you have concerns about blocking out light when you sleep, this may not be the place for you. The other downside was the slight present lingering odor of cigarettes. Now I completely understand smoking is not looked at the same way here in France, and this may be my American perspective showing, but the smell of cigarettes in a hotel is something that I only associate with Las Vegas hotels in the early 90s, or a cheap motel, also in the early 90s. Although this was a far cry from either of those examples, it was mildly unpleasant, and it is just not something I would have expected for a place like this. When we checked out, we mentioned it to the host at the front desk, but she seemed unbothered, so maybe it is the norm.

We only stayed for one night, but the experience overall was good. As I mentioned, there were a couple of annoyances, which I would not have anticipated in such a prestigious property, however, those were largely overcome by the beauty and charm of the place as a whole. Dinner at Le Parc was delicious, though not exceptionally memorable, but it fit in line with the classical luxury that Domaine Les Crayeres is famous for. In the end, I am not sure if I would stay here again as a guest, given the price and my experience with the room. However, if I ever had an opportunity to spend an evening at the La Rotonde, that is definitely what I would return for, in any season.