Jeune et Jolie - Carlsbad, USA

Jeune et Jolie is a restaurant in north San Diego county, serving California-inspired French cuisine. This trendy spot, located just blocks from the beach in the coastal town of Carlsbad, was opened in December of 2018, and has since become a local staple. Shortly after opening, they were recognized by Michelin with a Bib Gourmand award in 2019. Then, after surviving the COVID lockdowns, the restaurant was awarded their first Michelin star in 2021. Currently, under the guidance of executive chef Eric Bost, Jeune continues to maintain a delicious lineup of dishes, which rotate from time to time with seasonal ingredients.

The restaurant itself is located in a part of town which never would have imagined this type of venue just a decade ago. Carlsbad is not considered a rough place by any means, but on a street which was once lined with warehouses, small offices, and auto garages, a transformation is taking place. Now, boutique shops, multi-million dollar condos, and trendy restaurants are nestled among remnants of what used to be. Some long-time locals lament what is becoming of this once sleepy beach town; however, Jeune strikes a careful balance between modern sophistication and local charm.

The main “le dîner” menu features a four-course meal with seasonally rotating options for each course. Also available at the bar is an a la carte “menu du bar,” which features most of the dishes off the dinner menu, plus some other options, including a small variety of raw shellfish. We opted for the course option for the evening’s meal, and decided to each try different options for each course. First up, we had the crudo, as well as the tartare. Both dishes were fantastic, fresh, and balanced. The crudo was made with amberjack which tasted very fresh. The other ingredients of the dish brought it to life with sweet and acidic notes. The tartare was great as well, incorporating the slightest hint of wasabi to add a touch of heat, and topped with thinly-sliced radishes which added texture.

After the first course, the waitress brought out bread for the table. This was a small brioche loaf topped with a thin honey glaze and paired with fresh butter which was dusted with a citrus pollen topping. The bread itself was baked perfectly, and had a pleasant flavor and consistency. We saved a few pieces to clean up after the next dishes.

For the second course, we had the scallops and the pork. The scallops, although referred to as “Saint Jacques” on the menu were not prepared in the traditional coquilles Saint Jacques way, but instead as a delicious seared scallop with charred hearts of palm, accompanied by sea lettuce and grapes, and garnished with tarragon. The acidic flavors from the accompanying ingredients balanced the sweetness from the perfectly sear-crusted scallop. The pork dish, meanwhile, had much heartier flavors from the charred endive and the colatura-based gravy. Cooked quince brought a sweeter note to the dish to balance it out.

We went with the seasonal option for the main course, guinea hen, as well as an upgrade to the Japanese A5 wagyu. Starting with the guinea hen, the overall flavors were actually reminiscent of the pork dish, but certainly unique given the obvious flavor presence of black truffle. It was paired with a split charred sweet garleek, which contrasted against the savory hen. The wagyu was gently seared on the outside, and melted on the tongue. It was paired with a swiss chard layered pastry, traditionally topped with mushrooms and sweetbeads, but we requested extra mushrooms in place of the sweetbreads. Again, another well-constructed plate.

Finally ending the meal, we tried the berry dessert, as well as the grapefruit tartlet. Both were fresh and refreshing, with sweetness enhanced by acidic notes. The tartlet was delicately constructed, and included a variety of textures and flavors within the pastry itself. It was accompanied by a coinelle of triple cream brie, which was fresh and very mild and helped to extend the tart flavors of the tartlet. The berry dessert was a huckleberry mixture, garnished with violets, beneath a white chocolate French meringue disc. Both desserts were sweet but thoughtfully balanced.

Jeune et Jolie does offer two wine pairing options with the course dinner; however, we spotted a bottle on their wine list that we did not want to pass up. They happened to have a bottle of Guillaume Selosse Largillier champagne for a good price, so we jumped at the opportunity. Jacques Selosse (the house) is known for revolutionizing small production champagne, focusing on the quality and craft of the wine. These bottles are hard to come by, even in Champagne (capital C) itself, so we had to seize the opportunity. Although it was highly enjoyable and paired just fine with most of the dishes that we had, this champagne is probably best enjoyed on its own, in order to appreciate the nuances of the flavor.

Overall, the service and experience here at Jeune et Jolie was fantastic. The meal was delicious, made with fresh, flavorful ingredients, and all of the dishes were prepared to perfection. The pacing was good as well and we never felt rushed or left waiting by the time each next dish was served. The wait staff was attentive and friendly, but not overbearing, and they always made sure cups were full. One thing that could have been better was explanations of some of the dishes, however, that did not detract from the meal or the overall experience. In general, Jeune et Jolie maintains an upscale atmosphere where you can experience high-class cuisine, without the pretense of establishment fine dining.

Inside, the restaurant is thoughtfully designed in an organic, beach-inspired, art deco aesthetic. Gentle tones of pink and green add contrast to the predominantly soft-white interior, while brass fixtures and accents bring it all together. Meanwhile, a reel-to-reel stereo provides a soundtrack that is upbeat and modern, but unobtrusive. All of this is wrapped around a fantastic bar which sits right in the middle of the restaurant, while the wide open kitchen entertains diners from the back. It is definitely a cool environment, and in a word, I would call it “chic.” Jeune also offers seating in a sizable open air patio along the side of the building, among strings of lights and small hedges, which perpetuate the mellow romantic vibe.

Reference:

Orness Design Group (n.d.). Jeune et Jolie [Photograph]. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5887f3786a49631903166dbd/1556566727683-MLCB24SKY46SYXD81G7S/JPOV_20190327_00041.jpg

Orness Design Group