Le Royal - Champillon, France

Making its debut in 2018 when the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa was completely transformed into its current modern form, Le Royal earned its first Michelin star less than six months later in early 2919, under chef Jean-Denis Rieubland. It has maintained its one-star rating since then and is now led by chef Christophe Raoux, who continues to put forth quality and creativity in a menu that revolves around signature classics, as well as seasonal dishes.

Le Royal sits opposite Le Bellevue, the hotel’s more casual dining option, and just past the hotel’s bar, Abysse. The restaurant itself consists primarily of a single large dining room, with tables arranged around the perimeter, as well as around the center where a statue of Napoleon stands watch over the diners. In each of the four corners of the room are four large portraits of Napoleon’s favorite women. This motif is not only a tribute to the French emperor, but also a nod to women’s rights, which is one of the social causes championed by the hotel. A noble cause, surely, but a bit odd in the way this decor is situated, as each canvas is at floor-level, seemingly concealing computer terminals used by the waitstaff. Aside from that, the restaurant’s aesthetic was upscale with simple elegance.

Once we were settled in and had chosen our menu for the meal, the dishes soon began to arrive. Before the first actual course, a spread of small bites was laid out. These included a variety of flavors and textures, mostly in the format of tartlets and small savory pastries. Each was tasty and offered a sampling of seasonal flavors.

Le Royal’s menu features à la carte options, as well as three different choices of tasting experiences. For the tasting menus, each guest in the party must opt for the same menu, however, you really can’t go wrong with any of the choices. For this visit, we opted for the Effervescence Menu, which consisted of five dishes and the option to add a champagne pairing. Being in the heart of the region itself, this was a must. The other menus included their seven-course Signature Menu, as well as a chef’s voice Discovery Menu. Each of these menus is conveniently listed on Royal Champagne’s website.

After the amuse bouche, we began to make our way into the actual Effervescence Menu. During our visit which was in the fall, this menu featured porcini mushrooms, carabinero (Spanish red prawns), wild turbot, and partridge as the main protein, followed by a dessert of locally-grown quince. Each dish was carefully plated and thoughtfully prepared. The presentation was neat and elegant, while the variety of flavors, textures, and preparations kept the meal interesting. Each dish was balanced, both in flavor and plating, yet the meal never became monotonous as it progressed.

Finishing out the experience, a selection of desserts was presented, and there seemed to be even more plates than there were for the amuse bouche. By this point, we were getting a little full, but we had enough room to enjoy each of the uniquely sweet flavors and textures. These were tiny masterpieces of pastry chef Claire Santos Lopes, and each was a creative product, which did well in demonstrating her talent and repertoire.

As a whole, our visit to Le Royal was enjoyable, and it was easy to see why they have maintained their Michelin recognition. Like I mentioned though, this is a bit out of the way for a Parisian diner, so who would be dining here? By my estimate, most diners would be visitors or locals from the surrounding area, and of course guests staying at the hotel itself. With that being said, this should hardly be interpreted as a lukewarm impression of Le Royal. As a matter of fact, in my opinion, a meal here is the perfect pairing to the elegance of Champagne. Most travelers who venture this way are here to discover the exclusive sparkling wine native to this region, so why not end a trip (or each day) with a dining experience that will complement, but not overpower, the star of the show? If you do end up traveling between Reims and Épernay, stop by the old post house and give Le Royal a try. You will not be disappointed!