Lucien (Part 2) - La Jolla, USA

We first visited Lucien just a couple weeks after their grand opening in the summer of 2025. While the experience was generally positive, it was clear that they were still finding their footing. The talent was definitely there (by way of Thomas Keller’s Per Se), but the rhythm wasn’t. Each dish was exceptional on its own, but the menu was not the most cohesive; it didn’t tell a story.

That all was to be expected though, and we made a resolution to come back once they had a chance to settle in, so six months later, back we came.

This time, arrival at the restaurant went a little smoother, since we knew where we were going. After taking the elevator from street level to the third floor of the building, we confidently walked past (through) the outdoor dining area of the adjacent restaurant then back to the far corner, away in which the entrance of Lucien is tucked. Navigating the path to Lucien’s entrance is still a bit of a chore, unfortunately, and first-timers may be a bit daunted, but it’s worth the trek.

While the weather during this visit happened to not be far from what most in the northern hemisphere would consider a pleasant summer evening, it was, in fact, the middle of winter, and as such, the restaurant was not offering their outdoor aperitif beneath the stars and the calamansi tree. Instead, we were promptly guided inside to our semi-circular booth along the wall, not far from where we were seated just several months prior.

During our initial visit, there were not too many others dining, and there were definitely more than a few open tables. This time though, the restaurant appeared to be fully booked, which was encouraging to see. In fact, we overheard a couple across from us mentioning to the staff that it was nearly their tenth time dining there, so Lucien has definitely cultivated at least a couple of “regulars” by this point; another positive sign, albeit a bit of a surprise, given the price point.

The menu this time was pleasing, and felt a lot more dialed-in and intentional. To begin the meal, an assortment of small bites was served, focusing on seasonal ingredients like mushrooms as well as beets. After the amuse bouche, the meal progressed through six courses, each featuring elements of seafood, even with a hint of anchovy complimenting the main wagyu ribeye. The flavors became more hearty with the succession of each dish. A couple standouts to me were the white asparagus with oysters, as well as the very first dish, Lucien’s signature, an egg custard served in the shell, topped with N25 caviar, paired with Ibérico guanciale atop freshly dispatched San Diego uni (sea urchin). Partway through these dishes, a bread course was also served, which itself was surprisingly a little on the salty side, but was paired with a seaweed-infused butter, which was absolutely delicious.

After the main courses, a palette cleanser was served, which consisted of Meyer lemon ice cream, dusted with hojicha (Japanese roasted green tea). At this point, one of the waiters stopped by to ask us about our meal and our experience. We began to tell him all about our initial visit and our mission to return later to give a proper evaluation of the business. Our suspicion led us to ask if he was a manager or GM, but he turned out to be Brian Hung, one of the co-owners of the restaurant. Regarding his role for the night, he joked that he was the most frequently promoted and demoted employee at Lucien. What we saw though, was dedication. We continued talking with him for several minutes, enjoying a thoughtful, engaging, and mutually enlightening conversation about Lucien and the industry in general. As our ice cream was beginning to melt, he excused himself to allow us to finish so that we could move on to dessert.

Like our first visit, the desserts were built around seasonal ingredients. For the winter desserts, a strawberry rhubarb dish was followed by a chocolate and caramel dessert. Both, I would say, were relatively ‘safe’ in terms of pushing the envelope ingredient-wise. However they were both very technical in their execution, showcasing a variety of flavors, textures, temperatures, and techniques, which I definitely did appreciate.

Finishing off the meal was a trio of delicate confections, paired with a surprising and delicious warm, thick drink based on amazake, which is a traditional Japanese porridge-like drink made from sweet fermented rice, with chai spices. I would say this had more of a thick, creamy consistency than a chunky porridge, but regardless, it was absolutely delicious and I could have drank a whole mug full.

We did opt to add a wine pairing again this time, to see if anything had changed. Aside from the previous beverage director having moved on, the wine program still appeared to be strong and in good hands. A well thought out and interesting variety of wines complimented the dishes throughout the meal, and there were even some surprises toward the end. Each of the desserts was paired with a different Ratafia de Champagne, which is a fortified non-sparkling liqueur, made from grapes originating from the Champagne region. Ratafia on its own would have been a welcome surprise, but if you know us, Ratafia de Champagne was a very nice bonus. Getting to try two different ones was just icing on the cake. And of course, if that was not enough, Lucien still has Chateau d’Yquem, although in a standard format and not the jeroboam like last time.

The meal was well executed from start to finish, and it seems like the menu is starting to become honed and polished. Plating was neat, and the journey through the meal felt much more cohesive than our initial experience. The seasonal ingredients, which change by the day, were excellent in their freshness and flavor, which chef Elijah was able to bring out and enhance through careful, thoughtful preparation. There were even some pleasant surprises in the meal, with ingredients and flavors that I had never tried before. For that, I truly appreciate Lucien.

While the restaurant is still young, the team at Lucien is getting things dialed in quickly. There is still some fine tuning to be done, but they are definitely on the right track, and already operating at a level above many of their peers in the area. For the local folks, this is definitely a spot you want to check out for a date night or special occasion (or even just a midweek splurge). For those visiting San Diego, stretch your budget a bit and see for yourself what this up-and-coming restaurant is all about. Reservations are still relatively easy to get, but I have a feeling that won’t be the case for long.